> ## Content Index > Fetch the complete content index at: https://explore-galloway-with-the-selkirk-arms-hotel.ghost.io/llms.txt > Use this file to discover other available public pages before exploring further. # The 39 Steps – In the Footsteps of Richard Hannay - URL: https://explore-galloway-with-the-selkirk-arms-hotel.ghost.io/the-39-steps-in-the-footsteps-of-richard-hannay/ - Published: 2026-11-01T16:01:39.000Z - Updated: 2026-11-01T16:01:39.000Z - Author: Chris Walker A literary adventure through Gatehouse of Fleet and the wild landscapes of Galloway ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.49.24.png) Few novels have captured the imagination quite like The Thirty-Nine Steps, the classic tale of espionage, intrigue and a desperate chase across the Scottish countryside. Published in 1915, John Buchan's celebrated thriller introduced readers to Richard Hannay, an ordinary man caught up in an extraordinary conspiracy involving foreign spies, murder and a threat to Britain's national security. But what makes this story particularly fascinating for visitors to Dumfries & Galloway is its close connection with our own corner of Scotland. The rugged hills, lonely moorlands, abandoned railway lines and remote landscapes around Gatehouse of Fleet helped inspire the world in which Buchan's hero found himself pursued by both the police and enemy agents. And today, more than a century later, you can explore much of that landscape for yourself, with the Selkirk Arms Hotel in Kirkcudbright providing the perfect base for your very own 39 Steps adventure. ## John Buchan and his Galloway connections ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.50.09.png) John Buchan John Buchan was a Scottish novelist, politician and statesman whose adventures became some of the most influential thrillers of the twentieth century. Although The Thirty-Nine Steps was not written entirely in Galloway, Buchan knew the area through visits to friends, particularly the McCulloch family at Ardwall near Gatehouse of Fleet. One intriguing local tradition suggests that the name Richard Hannay was inspired by the Hannay family of nearby Cardoness. The Clan Hannay Society records the connection between Buchan's visits, the families and the fictional hero. Whether you are a literary enthusiast, a lover of classic cinema or simply someone who enjoys discovering Scotland's hidden history, the story provides a wonderful excuse to explore this beautiful part of Galloway. ## The chase across the Galloway moors In the novel, Hannay escapes London by train, eventually making his way through Dumfries and into the Galloway countryside. Buchan describes a journey across open moorland, remote hills and isolated settlements, with one particularly important landmark: Cairnsmore of Fleet. It is here that the connection between fiction and real geography becomes especially vivid. The Cairnsmore landscape, rising above the old railway route west of Gatehouse of Fleet, offers precisely the sort of wild, exposed country in which Hannay might have attempted to shake off his pursuers. The novel's railway journeys also evoke an almost vanished Galloway, when steam trains connected small communities across the region. Today, sections of those former railway routes can still be explored on foot, offering a wonderful combination of literary history, industrial heritage and outstanding scenery. ## From bestselling novel to cinema classic ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.55.25.png) 1935 – Alfred Hitchcock The classic film starring Robert Donat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.50.31-1.png) 1978 – Robert Powell The period adventure filmed partly in Dumfries & Galloway. Buchan's novel became internationally famous through Alfred Hitchcock's 1935 adaptation, followed by the 1959 film starring Kenneth More and the 1978 production starring Robert Powell. The 1978 film used several locations in Dumfries & Galloway, including Morton Castle and Durisdeer, while the 1959 film featured other Scottish landscapes. Although the scenery around Gatehouse of Fleet is closely associated with the original novel, it should be distinguished from the documented film locations. That makes this tour primarily a journey through Buchan's literary landscape, rather than a tour of actual film sets. ## The 39 Steps – A self-drive tour from the Selkirk Arms Hotel Self-drive Half-day to full-day adventure Starting and finishing in Kirkcudbright, combining historic sites, dramatic scenery and an optional walk along Hannay's railway route. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.51.48.png) The map shows the outward journey. Return to Kirkcudbright by the same general route, allowing extra time for walking. ### Stop 1 – Cardoness Castle and the Hannay connection ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.50.51.png) Cardoness Castle Our adventure begins near Cardoness Castle, the impressive medieval tower house just outside Gatehouse of Fleet. The nearby Cardoness estate is associated with the Hannay family, whose surname, according to local tradition, may have inspired Buchan's most famous fictional character. The castle provides a striking introduction to the area's turbulent history and a chance to imagine the world Buchan knew. Visitor note: The castle is currently reported as temporarily closed, so treat this as an exterior sightseeing stop rather than a guaranteed visit inside. ### Stop 2 – Gatehouse of Fleet and the Mill on the Fleet ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.49.53.png) The Mill on the Fleet - Gatehouse of Fleet Continue into the attractive town of Gatehouse of Fleet, with its handsome Georgian buildings and historic connections to the Galloway countryside. A visit to Mill On The Fleet is particularly worthwhile. The restored cotton mill houses local history displays and information about John Buchan and The Thirty-Nine Steps. It's a wonderful place to discover how Buchan transformed familiar landscapes into the setting for one of Britain's greatest adventure novels. Allow 45–60 minutes, perhaps enjoying a coffee before heading into the hills. Check seasonal opening arrangements. ### Stop 3 – Cairnsmore of Fleet: Into Hannay's country ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.49.40.png) Cairnsmore From Gatehouse, follow the B796 north towards Cairnsmore of Fleet National Nature Reserve. This is where the literary adventure really comes alive. The road climbs away from the town into a magnificent landscape of heather-covered hills, granite outcrops, forestry and remote moorland. Imagine Richard Hannay making his escape across these hills, looking over his shoulder for the pursuing police or the mysterious agents determined to silence him. The reserve offers a short waymarked walk around the Clints of Dromore, approximately 1.6 miles (2.5 km), taking about an hour. It's a lovely way to experience the landscape without tackling the full Cairnsmore summit. ### Stop 4 – Big Water of Fleet Viaduct: The railway escape ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/Screenshot-2026-11-01-at-15.49.24-1.png) Big Water of Fleet Viaduct Perhaps the most evocative stop of the entire tour is the magnificent Big Water of Fleet Viaduct. Opened in 1861, the viaduct stretches approximately 900 feet across the valley, its 20 arches standing as a reminder of the railway that once carried passengers across Galloway. This railway landscape is especially relevant to Buchan's novel, with Hannay travelling through the region by train before fleeing into the surrounding countryside. There is also a fascinating cinema connection: railway heritage sources identify the viaduct as appearing in Hitchcock's 1935 The 39 Steps. From the nature reserve visitor centre, walkers can follow the trails towards the viaduct and former railway. A longer circular route of around 2.5 miles (4 km) is available, depending on conditions and access. For keen walkers, the old railway corridor towards Loch Skerrow and Mossdale offers an extended opportunity to follow the landscape of Hannay's escape. ### Stop 5 – Return to Kirkcudbright After a day exploring Galloway's literary landscapes, return to Kirkcudbright and the comforts of the Selkirk Arms Hotel. There may be no enemy agents on your trail, no coded messages to decipher and no need to disguise yourself as a milkman, but the hills, history and dramatic scenery of Buchan's world remain as captivating as ever. ## Stay at the Selkirk Arms Hotel – Your base for literary Galloway ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/b9/30b94c8c-c310-4967-adca-658431b31095/content/images/2026/11/33676269_10214754958419443_5991347913266036736.jpg) The Selkirk Arms Hotel and Restaurant in Kirkcudbright For guests staying at the historic Selkirk Arms Hotel, the 39 Steps trail is a wonderful way to spend a day exploring the beautiful countryside around Kirkcudbright. Combine your adventure with a comfortable overnight stay, a hearty Scottish breakfast and a relaxing dinner on your return. And why not explore more of our literary and cinematic heritage? Our other self-drive adventures include The Wicker Man film trail and Dorothy L. Sayers' Five Red Herrings locations. Come for the story. Stay for the scenery. Discover Galloway's 39 Steps.